SEPTEMBER 28TH, FRIDAY BLOG#18

SEPTEMBER 28^TH, FRIDAY BLOG#18

Friday is gray and overcast but doesn’t appear to want to rain at least not immediately. The TV stations around Spain are showing flooded streets, cars swept away in raging torrents, etc; even mudslides along major highways and continuing  forecasts for more rain until this system moves east out over the med had towards the boot of Italy. We will keep our fingers crossed, Jan’s sketchers are still sopping wet from yesterday afternoon’s deluge and besides Jane has a new 3 euros umbrella to ward off the showers today.

Barbadillo Bodega Sp - Manzanillo

Off to catch the bus opposite the hotel should be one at 1139 however, after reading the stop’s information we decided to walk up to the next stop which is in front of the old castle. Keystone cops version of events unfolded because you guessed it here comes the bus when we are exactly half way between the two stopsd and the driver will NOT be flagged to stop for us, On he goes past us!!. And so we continued to the castle. Opposite the castile was the bodega Barbadillo a major brand of sherry, the English speaking tour had started at 11:00 but was close by and so they sold us our tickets and we joined the group on the tour. The girl was quite knowledgeable and she lives in Jerez no less! Next was the sherry tasting which last another 15 minutes starting with dry and finishing up with the cream sherry at the end. Went back across the street and waiting for the bus into town; only 2 euros per couple!

Through twisting and barely wide enough lanes we made it down to the center  of town. We first attempted to view the skyline  from the Hotel Quadalquivir Hotel balcony 11 floors up but were chased from the lobby by the bellhop who informed us that the rooftop did not open until 4:00PM each day so we went to the tourist info office where the young lass who we had assumed was Spanish  turned out to be from Pennsylvania her dad had elected to retire in Spain (perhaps he had been military at one time). Armed with fresh new maps, we set out to the river bank and the working end of the harbor port.

Barge to the National de Donana park across the river.

To our left was the Atlantic Ocean and to our right the Rio Guadalquivir and across the river the Parque National de Donana , we turned right and headed for the port and restaurants. It was a bit of a slog and Paul whined a little but we made it and were immediately ambushed by waiters at every restaurant trying to pull us to their tables to eat. It was a little disconcerting to say the least! We finally picked the one where NO-ONE assaulted us and sat down. We had a terrific lunch of Coquinas al ajillo , which were amazing but even more work than eating crab! A great big bowl of garlicky yumminess! Then the swordfish and simple salad (lettuce, tomatoe, onion) which left us quite speechless! Paul asked how we could give justice in the blog to that meal and I said I would give it a go. Are you drooling? I am just thinking about it! The swordfish was pan seared/browned to perfection such that the fish was ever so juicy a light drizzle of oil followed by a sprinkle sea salt. Never tasted fish so yummy!!

Now back to the hotel in a taxi as the buses all stop for a siesta,too. Go figure. As I was shampooing my hair this morning, I counted the different types of tile in our bathroom. It was either 7 or 8. I’m not quite sure what is going on here, but obviously someone is trying to retain some of the original antique tiles but good grief wouldn’t just a complementary color have worked? They were all different patterns. Then we discovered this morning that the Duchess of Medina Sidonia, who was by all accounts a rebel, never wanted her Palace to be sold into private hands. She set up a trust to administer the estate and the Hospederia (hotel) is only there to supply funds for the upkeep of the palace. She hated Franco and was imprisoned by him, but that created such an International uproar that he made a half hearted apology and tried to set her free, but she would not leave the prison until her sentence was over. It wasn’t long, only weeks, but what a gutsy lady! She was the last of her line and there are no more Duques de Medina Sedonia. There are over 6 million pieces of records in the Palace which are not to be handed over to anybody and are stored in the Palace. She trusted no government! Really interesting stuff, but I wish they would spring for some more lights in the bedrooms, I mean, crystal chandeliers and sconces in the bathroom are all very well but don’t give much illumination!

Anyway back we went into town after siesta and went up 11 floors in the downtown hotel to view the city from above. Paul took photos with his phone posted them to facebook already. Very nice pub up there with great views all around, the weather had cleared a little and it was very pleasant. We wandered through a couple a Plazas and waited for the bus to take us back up to view the Castillo de Santiago. This castle has been very well restored and the views from the keep/turret are as good as from the top of the hotel, but Paul wouldn’t know as he refused to climb up there. As we had already walked about 10 miles, I couldn’t really blame him.

Flooded gardens at the hotel.

This was a very important town and castle. From here Columbus left on his third voyage, Magellan also departed from here and from the tower of the castle Queen Isabel saw the ocean for the first time!  The town has three parts, the harbor/fishing  area, the center area and the historic area where all the nobs lived (where we are currently staying, in the land of the nobs! It’s up the hill and they could see the river and all the working stiffs below!! It is all a little downtrodden and tired now and I found the town a little depressing but that could have been because of the wet feet and shoes and the grey skies. We did not get over to Donana as you cannot drive there, just have guided tours and we had lost some time getting drenched and being confined to quarters! The town is larger than I had anticipated and it took a bit of navigating. The hotel was interesting but not the most comfortable. The tour we were given this morning was a privilege. There was an English couple who came with us on the tour of the Palace and I had to translate which gave me an even better understanding of the importance of this building. Google it folks, it is really fascinating.